Can't recall precisely but I think I was underextruding by as much as 7mm when I tried extruding 100mm. 4,332 talking about this. Right now I am printing PLA at 195 on the hot end (down from 200 to help with hairy-ness) and 70 on the bed (up from 60 to attempt to keep the prints on the bed).Scaled down 2/3 because I only had 1.8mm filament handy to use as wrist pins, also faster print time. The settings I've got worked for months and months. CDN$449.99. Btw adhesion starts out ok but the filament is peeled up and dragged across the build plate as the print goes on if that helps at all.I work in a 3D printing lab and we have several types of printers, plus, at home I have the anycubic i3. - so turning the cooling off might be helping.Finally, there is possibility that your bed is a complete dud - but then glue stick , hairspray or painters tape should have shown that was the issue. I start with an initial layer of 0.3 then the rest are 0.2. The next suggestion is to increase the nozzle temperature a few degrees.1) I replaced the bed - and I use the same cleaning/leveling techniques that used to work great (paper leveling, cleaning with alcohol, etc.) I already use isopropyl but bed adhesion is a good lead to followI have had the same problem - was very surprised when I put on a new ultrabase and the problem continued. I felt the problem started when I upgraded cura - so I backed down to 3.4.1 temporarily until I can research which default settings changed. Finally you can use baby wipes to easily clean the bed (It is recommended to clean it every time after using the hairspray).I'm very interested in getting a definitive answer for this. Stable transmission – Most DLP printer use Raspberry Pi to implement offline printing which is unstable most of the times but with Photon system it is designed to support Offline printing.Plug-and-play, USB printing offer stable signal transmission. I usually run 0.2mm first layer height. I suspect that it could be partial under extrusion because before turning to spaghetti, the first lines don't bind together. I just clean it before every print.I had the temp at 200 (and tried 205) for the initial layer - but I backed that out when I went back to 3.4.1 and the new base Editorial content, on principle, can not be bought or influenced. Slow down the speed a bit, increase the layer height, slow down fan. It starts out fine - but at some point in the print it cools down? On the print today it looked like I was getting some warping at the base of the print - so I turned off the 'enable print cooling' button and because of deadlines, I turned on rafts (which I don't like to do). Also I try to keep the part fan from running during at least the 1st layer so that the fan doesn't cool too much and make the part curl up.Try setting "initial layer line width" to 125%. You will then receive an email that helps you regain access.You can also read the documentation to learn about Wordfence's blocking tools, or visit wordfence.com to learn more about Wordfence.Your access to this service has been limited.
Product Features: ANYCUBIC Photon UV-SLA 3D Printer Supplier Australia Full Color Intelligent touch screen for real-time previews of print status. ANYCUBIC's co-founder graduated in 2015 and returned to China from New Zealand. If you have under-extrusion then you can calibrate the extruder or just up the "flow" variable (in Cura).hmmm - maybe the connections for the thermocouples are bad inside the printer itself? Check out our review to find out why. I have run anywhere from 120% to 140% first layer flow. The two short prints I did this afternoon and evening printed fine with no noticeable warping on the rafts. Things are running better, but I lost a print that should have printed just today (with bed temperature 70!). In the lab we use hairspray to ensure print adhesion to the bed, at home I don't usually need it, but when prints have small contact surface I do and it works perfectly. I will be able to watch more closely this weekend - I'll try to catch one failing and report back here.2 things I ran into around this:I had the same issue and nothing helped. Any help is appreciated! I have only seen curling once with PLA, and that was before I realized I needed to clean the bed. I was tearing my hair out with exactly the same problem recently and it turned out to be the filament. and 2) - as I'm watching the first layers go down - they really seem stuck to the bed well. The Anycubic i3 Mega is our spring 2019 pick for the "Best 3D Printer Under $300". So, you could run some extrusion tests, too, of course.Oh, if your part allows it you can always look into using a brim or raft. Welcome to the official Facebook page of ANYCUBIC. Yeah I can change the fan settings and layer height for initial level(s) - but why all of the sudden do I need to change things now?

I got the Mega S in a couple weeks ago. Have you tried any of those?No matter what I try, my prints won't stick to the bed. No matter how much I smoosh, clean, heat, and use different filaments, nothing has worked.
I haven't really been watching it closely, but I have noticed extrusion differences that I believe are related to difference in filament size, brand to brand, color to color, spool to spool.Me, an intellectual, replaced the ultra base entirely to no avail, but I will change the fan speed.My first recommendation is to use initial layers of .3mm.

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